DESIGN TIPS AND TRICKS AND IMPORTANT NUMBERS FOR YOUR DINING SPACE

DESIGNING YOUR DINING ROOM

The  table size should be determined by the size of the room and other furniture in it. The minimum space between the edge of the table and the wall or a piece of furniture is 30 - 36".Ideally 48 - 60".  This allows for clearance walking behind seated diners.

Seating allowances each diner should have 24 - 30" wide by 16 - 18" in depth and 5 - 9" between diners.

Area rugs in dining rooms must go beneath the table and all 4 chair legs. Dining chairs need at least 2' pushback space.  It is important that when the chairs are pushed away, they are still on the rug and do not go beyond and become caught.  An underpad is a good investment as it will protect the rug fibres rubbing against the wood floors whenever chairs are pushed back and forth.

Chandeliers in a room with an 8' ceiling should be hung between 28 - 34" from the table top and the bottom of the chandelier.  For each foot higher than that add 3".  To determine an appropriate size of chandelier measure the width of the room in feet, double the number and change it to inches.  The width should never be longer than the table.  Ideally it would be 1/2 to 2/3 of your table. Dimmer switches are very important in a dining room as they add ambience.  Wall sconces can also add ambience and should be placed 60" from the floor.

         

Centrepieces & candles should never block the view of the diner.Average eye level for men is 27" from table top and for women it is 19".  It is also of note that candles should not be scented where food is being served.

Drapery brings an elegant mood to a dining room.  This is an area of much discussion.  The correct length has the fabric just touching the floor. The placement of the curtain rod should be half way between the top of the window moulding and the ceiling in most cases.  There are always different options depending the height of the room, window etc.

Dishware looks more cohesive when the style works with the style of your room.  A victorian china pattern would not work as well in an ultra modern space as something clean lined and plain.  Coordinating wallcoverings, drapery, rug, table linens and china does not mean match matchy.  I just means having it flow well and coordinated.

A beautiful Dining room

COUNTERTOPS 101

I thought I would offer a list of the most popular countertops available that most people select and a little info about each.  It seems in the interior design business Kitchens and Baths are the most popular rooms to be renovated. Functionality, individual lifestyle and of course aesthetics are important when taking on this renovation.

Countertops ‘101’

When selecting a countertop for our kitchens or baths we can become overwhelmed by the selections available and which work best for us individually.  If you want low maintenance you would not go for marble.  For the low maintenance crowd, quartz is one of the best products available. Over the years manufacturers are coming up with better and better products.

Solid Surface

The generic term, ‘solid surface’ refers to any material that is solid all the way through. This means it doesn’t have a topcoat that is different from the centre core. Solid surface materials are consistent in colour and content throughout. The advantage of this can be durability, hardness, temperature dispersion and edge profile options. Marble, Quartz, Granite and Corian (or similar materials like Gibraltar or Zodiac) are all considered Solid surfaces. The seams on the material are almost invisible and it is resistant to stains, so you can expect the countertop to stay in good condition for years. However, solid-surface material is not heat resistant and it's vulnerable to abrasive damage. Take care with how you use the countertops to avoid damaging the material.

Plastic Laminate

Plastic Laminate‎ is a thin plastic sheet molded around a particleboard centre with a few options for edge detail. This is not a solid surface material. Although not loved by designers, real estate agents or homeowners alike, laminate can be a practical and inexpensive solution in certain spaces. Also, laminate companies continuously coming out with new colours  and options. This is the most affordable option.  Despite being made with heat and pressure, laminate is vulnerable to heat damage, so it's important to avoid placing any hot pots or pans on the surface of a laminate countertop. This material also has a shorter lifespan than most other countertop options and it is prone to peeling.

Corian

Corian is a man-made resin product that comes in multiple colours. Corian is well known for its integrated sinks and seamless joints. Less glossy than quartz or natural stones, it has a softer look and feel. An advantage to Corian is that it can have adjustments made to it such as extending a counter top without removing the top or creating seams. ‎Corian is an easy to maintain pliable material with a premium price tag!

Marble

As beautiful as Marble is, one must be careful when selecting it.  It stains very easily so in a bathroom it can become damaged by some of the chemicals used.  When used on a kitchen countertop it requires maintenance but as it ages, it is beautiful.  If you want the look but not the maintenance, think about using it for your backsplash. The reason being, it can be very sensitive to wine stains or de-glossing from lemons, tomatoes or vinegar. A matte or leathered-finish marble can be slightly more forgiving, but it’s only for customers who can handle the natural marking that will occur. If you can’t handle this, choose something else!! Marble is expensive, beautiful but sensitive!!  Marble holds up well against heat and it is racking, chipping, or breaking, allowing it to last for years without problem. However, this lry material is vulnerable to scratching and staining, which is why it's necessary to have the marble sealed at least once a year to keep it in good condition.

Granite

Granite is a different natural stone than marble, in the fact that it is impervious to wine, acidic food and most scratches & wear and tear. ‎(Hence tombstones are now granite and no longer marble!). Granite has more of a pebbled pattern and less veins than marble. If it is taken care of properly, a granite countertop can last for decades. Granite is easy to clean, but it is a porous natural stone, so you will need to apply a new sealant over the granite about once every three to five years..

Quartz

Quartz is the generic term used to describe a man-made material formulated from the quartz found in granite and then recast in resin. It is very hard, non-porous, scratch resistant and nice looking. It is softer in pattern than granite, but it is not as reliable for heat dispersion. You may want to stay away from quartz around fireplaces and try not to rest hot pots on it. Quartz is a good choice if you want a variety of colours or lots of companies to choose from. It costs about the same as granite.  Due to the non-porous design, you don't need to worry about sealing the countertop regularly. However, it's important to avoid placing hot objects on the engineered quartz because it is vulnerable to heat damage and may begin to melt. Additionally, engineered quartz can fade under direct sunlight, so consider the layout of your kitchen before choosing this material for a new countertop.

Silestone

Silestone is a quartz material, offering over 60 stunning colours in 2 unique textures. Silestone is composed of natural materials resulting in slight variances in colour, shade and particle structure.   Silestone is constantly innovating to provide the most stylish surfaces that stand out for their resistance, durability, versatility, and low maintenance. Silestone offers a unique combination of antibacterial protection, NSF, and Greenguard certifications. It is a durable, non-porous and low-maintenance surface that delivers premium performance resistant to staining, scratching, impact, and scorching making it the perfect partner for any project in your home.

Soapstone

Soapstone is new to the solid surface lineup, although it’s been around for a long time. It is naturally heat resistant and easy to maintain. You can have integrated sinks, with soapstone, included within the counter top. It is less glossy than marble or granite and offers a variety of pattern, but always in a dark tone. It is an excellent material for dispersing heat so it’s perfect around fireplace openings or in high-wear kitchens. Soapstone is the same in cost as high-grade granite.In order to keep soapstone kitchen countertops in good condition for years to come and to help develop the patina on the surface, it's recommended to treat the countertop with mineral oil about once per month during the first year after installation.

Quartzite

Often confused with the name quartz, quartzite is a natural stone that has the durability of granite, but the veining pattern of marble. It is a delicate material during manufacture, so it requires a good fabricator. Once it is installed, it performs well. Slabs generally have soft wave patterns in a full range of largely neutral colours. You can expect premium pricing with Quartzite.  Quartzite typically comes in light neutral shades of white and gray, but the minerals found in the sandstone can lend pink, gold, or rust hues to your countertops. This material looks similar to marble, but quartzite boasts more strength and durability at a lesser cost. It  is  durable and low maintenance, however it is expensive and requires resealing annually.

Butcher-block

Butcher-block countertops are a breed of countertop all by themselves. They offer the aesthetic warmth that the look of wood provides while at the same time providing a versatile work surface in the kitchen. They bring a distinctive look that's appropriate in a kitchen that's hard at work or "dressed up" for entertaining.

Deciding whether it's the right choice for your kitchen takes an understanding of just what a butcher-block countertop is, how it's made and how you're going to use it.

Remember that butcher-block counters that you will cut and prepare food on will need frequent cleaning and oiling. If you're someone who just isn't up for this level of maintenance, consider getting "non-working" butcher-block countertops and use a separate cutting board for the food preparation. If you neglect the cutting board, you can just toss it out. That's harder to do (and more expensive) when you've neglected your countertops.  The wood is tough and durable, allowing it to stand up to years of use without failing. However, the fibrous nature of wood means that the surface of the countertop can become scratched, stained, or even burned. You can sand and reseal the wood about once every two to three years or as necessary to restore the original appearance of the countertop.  However, it should be noted that the wood needs to be regularly oiled and would benefit from being sealed to prevent mold, mildew and bacteria from seeping into the fibrous countertop.

Concrete

The decision about installing a concrete countertop versus granite, marble, corian or laminate can be a difficult one.  When thinking about this keep in mind you will need the correct cabinetry infrastructure to handle the weight so putting concrete on 30 year old cabinets may not be the best idea.  Concrete is both beautiful and budget-friendly. If properly installed and sealed, concrete countertops will last practically forever. Concrete works well in a modern or industrial looking kitchen.  Concrete is a porous material and will absorbed liquids and stain.  Acidic substances will etch the concrete and cooking oils can leave dark stains.  Applying a sealer to the surface will lessen the chances of damage.

Stainless Steel

Stainless Steel has always been popular in commercial kitchens; but it's become a trend in residential homes as well.  This type of countertop is an instant way to give your kitchen a stylish, industrial look.

If you clean stainless steel properly with a little bit of soap and water or a product formulated specifically for this surface, it's easy to maintain.  But the longer you leave a splash or spill the harder it is to clean.  Stainless steel also shows fingerprints and water spots easily, so it isn't ideal for a home with young children.

Another pitfall of stainless steel is that it can dent and scratch.  But for the most part, stainless steel is incredibly durable and entirely non-porous.  Stainless steel is commonly used in commercial kitchens dur to the non-porous construction that makes it easy to keep clean.  This is one of the types of countertops for the kitchen that resists mold, mildew and staining.

To complete the process you will have to select an appropriate edge for your counter, and depending on the material selected , it can be brought up to the backsplash for a clean continuous look.  Of course sinks and faucets will need to be decided on.

Cottage Paint

The other day a colleague and I had the opportunity to visit Cottage Paint and meet with Gail Rogers who kindly showed us how to use the paint and create different finishes. 

Cottage Paint is a clay-based paint that dries to a silky matte finish, and remains porous and easy to sand or wet distress when dry, making it perfect for the Shabby-Chic style furniture refinishing on trend right now. This type of paint isn’t new of course, it’s been around since the frescos in the Sistine Chapel, but the benefit of this modern clay paint is that it has been formulated to exceed today’s environmental standards by removing almost all of the VOCs in both the bases and the pigments. Cottage Paint is used as a furniture refinishing product, it achieves an authentic time-worn appearance through it’s chalky finish and the hand rubbed technique used to distress it. You can create many additional finishes when using their specialty products as well, the possibilities seem almost endless once you start to experiment with it.

 A few of the great qualities this paint has:

• Cottage Paint dries in about 15 minutes to one hour. Never do more than THREE applications of anything to a piece per day though, even if you can.
• It adheres to just about any surface you can think of: wood, plastic, metal, brick
• It requires NO sanding, priming or stripping most of the time. Just make sure the surface is clean. Varnished and stained surfaces do require priming to seal the surface prior to painting.
• The paint can be distressed as soon as it is dry using a damp cloth or fine sand paper.
• Cottage Paint does not roll or peel like latex when sanded, it appears as if the paint has gradually worn off over time.
• Can be used in conjunction with their other decorative finishes to create endless unique looks and combinations

Below are some of the different surface treatments available but a visit to this supplier is worth the time.

 My favourite below - using a special was on the fabric and then adhering it to a tabletop

If anyone is interested in a demonstration, please stop by Sheridan Nurseries for Ladies Night Out at the location on Southdown Road, Mississauga at 7 pm.,

7 Rules for Under Cabinet Lighting - from renovaton bootcamp by Robin Siegerman

7 Rules for Under Cabinet Lighting  
http://renovationbootcamp.com/7-rules-under-cabinet-lighting/

Under cabinet lights keep the counters from being dark

No lighting under the cabinets makes the work surface gloomy

Did you know that poor lighting in a kitchen can cause you to have headaches, neck and shoulder problems and eye strain?  

Did you also know that poorly designed lighting in a kitchen can ruin the whole effect of your costly remodel?

Lighting your kitchen well can make the difference between a room that feels warm and inviting, where friends and family love to gather and linger vs one that feels gloomy and drab or clinical and sterile and makes meal preparation a chore and a depressing experience.

Here are 7 Rules for undercabinet lighting  for your kitchen!

Undercabinet lighting illuminates the work surface 

After the renovation, even undercabinet lighting

UNDER CABINET LIGHTING

My pet peeve is when people refer to this as “undercounter” lighting.  It’s not mounted under the counter, it’s mounted under the wall cabinets to LIGHT UP your COUNTER, therefore it’s UNDER—–>>> CABINET lighting.

Because the tasks you perform often use sharp implements and blades that can lop off a digit or two, lighting up your work area is critical, but there are a few rules of thumb to keep in mind so you can keep your thumb on your hand where it belongs:

1.   The lights should be mounted to the under side of the wall cabinet at the front NOT the back.  The idea is to light your work surface, not the back wall.  Since your wall cabinets are half the depth of your base cabinets, mounting your lights at the front of the cabinet will give you good lighting on the whole counter top, not just at the back.

2.   If you have chosen a highly reflective counter top material like polished black granite, it will look like a mirror when lit from above, bouncing terrible glare off the counter top back into your eyes.  So for this kind of situation, use an under cabinet fixture with a lens that’s frosted which will diffuse the lights so you don’t blind yourself and cut off a digit!

3.   Using individual puck lights for under-cabinet lighting is not the best solution unless you space them very close together so you don’t get “hot” spots under the light and dark spots between the fixtures.  This causes your pupils to constantly be dilating and focusing and can cause eyestrain and headaches.

4.   LED strip lighting will not be as bright as other types like halogen, xenon or fluorescent, so you might want to use two strips side-by-side. This will double your cost, but their life is so long, you’ll virtually never have to replace them, unless you leave them on 24/7. Even then, they should last for a good 15 years or more.

5.   Try to install the light switch that controls your under cabinet lighting in the same place as your general room lighting.  You’ll get aggravated very quickly if you have to run around your kitchen to hit the switches to control various light sources.

6.   Colour temperature of your under cabinet lighting is going to affect how the colours of your backsplash tile and counter top look. If the light is very cool (like a fluorescent with a lot of blue in the spectrum), warm colors like reds and oranges are going to look dead.  On the other hand, a cool light can make green or blue more vivid. Talk to someone who knows lighting before throwing in any old under cabinet lighting if you’ve got a backsplash or counter top you want to highlight.

7.   Unless your cabinets have a face-frame that creates a recessed cavity under your wall cabinets, be sure your kitchen designer specifies a light valance. This is a strip of cabinet-match material of about 2″ high that will hide the under cabinet lights from view so you won’t be hit in the eyes with glare when you sit at a kitchen table.

http://renovationbootcamp.com/7-rules-under-cabinet-lighting/

And the lights came on.....

Most decorators and designers will tell you that the correct lighting can make or break a room.It is one of the most important factors in good design.   Unfortunately in many cases it is the last thing on people's minds when undertaking a new re-decorating or renovation project.  Space planning/layout is one of the first before purchasing furnishings and then you should look at where the lighting should be an how much of it depending on the activities that will take place in that space.  Poor lighting will affect how we function in the space as well as lack of it can leave it flat and without personality.  Lighting can create a lovely atmosphere in your home.  It offers functionality as well as mood.

To have the most effective lighting scheme, you will require a combination of all three types of lighting, comprised of task, ambient and accent.  The ambient light will provide a general even balance of light throughout a space such as a chandelier.  Task lighting will focus on a specific area such as a lamp positioned for reading.  Accent lighting will draw attention to a particular area and add depth and drama, such as a picture light or a recessed pot light directed toward a piece of art.

When planning your overall lighting you need to consider the mood you want to create and the tasks to be performed in each specific room.  When selecting your fixtures, obviously you would want to compliment the style of your room’s décor.   The type of lampshade can also affect your lighting.   The shape, material and opacity of the shade will affect the direction and diffusion of the light by sending it up or down and reducing glare.  Using dimmers gives you more control over the brightness and mood. 

These days, we cannot speak about lighting without mentioning the importance of Energy-efficient light bulbs. The original Compact Fluorescent lamps (CFL’s) that were introduced with the coils which appeared less attractive that the standard incandescent light bulbs we were used to have now been redesigned.  They also gave off a slightly cooler and duller light than an incandescent but again manufacturers have worked on making them warmer and brighter.

When planning your lighting, it is important to speak with expert lighting suppliers in order to be certain that your final plan will serve your needs.  The new LED's are amazing and having attended two seminars on this topic, it is definitely worth your investment to read about them and seek information from the experts. The latest way to select the correct amount of light for your space is measured in lumens.   I have learned quite a bit recently about wattage, lumens, halogen, cfl and leds,  but do not consider myself a complete expert so I defer to the many notes I have and the lighting experts.

All I can say is that lighting never looked so good!!

The Learning and Education never stops.... or it shouldn't!

This year our GTA West Chapter embarked on another fantastic Professional Development Day for the members in this area.  Once again Willis, a very supportive affiliate of ours donated their space and refreshments for this 1/2 day event.

We followed this up with our annual Summer Luncheon held at the Millcroft Golf Club in Burlington.

A great day of learning, networking and eating was had by all!

Special thanks to  Jason Bouwman , Principal & Creative Director of Compass Creative in Stoney Creek, Ont., a marketing agency that specializes in serving contractors in the landscaping and home renovation industry.

Mike Hetherman, President, owner and CEO of Willis - a North American distributor of world class building materials including DuPont™ Corian®, DuPont™ Zodiaq®, Arpa Italian laminate and Artisan sinks and faucets

Surface Innovation - flexible veneers

Several Years ago I met Mike Stiller, owner of Surface Innovation at IDS and was amazed at his product line of flexible slate and other stone products.  Over the years the line has expanded and when he introduced barn board last year I thought that was great.  Now, he has gone a step further and the latest is also made of reclaimed wood - Barn board PS which is a thin weathered wood veneer with a self adhesive backing.  How easy can it get for the average DIYer.

So with the self adhesive barn board planks you just measure, cut and stick.  I think anyone could do that and get the lovely rustic and warm appearance of barn board without the weight and thickness.  A very cost effective way to transform your space adding texture, warmth and the rustic look which is so on trend these days.

Plank sizes - 1/8" X 5" in random lengths from 1' to 4', with the option of 20 or 40 sq. ft. per box. 

There is also barn wood which are a textured wood mosaic tiles made from reclaimed barn board and ship wood tiles, made from reclaimed sunken wooden boats.  How eco is that!

SOFA and another great Presentation - Fisher & Paykel

I recently attended a presentation at SOFA by Glen Peloso.  For anybody who hasn't been to one of Glen's presentations you are missing out on some fun and facts.  This recent event was Hosted by Fisher & Paykel (pronounced like Michael) in their gorgeous showroom at SOFA.  The premise was 'Kitchens for the Way we Live" and Glen took us on a walk down memory lane to see where we have evolved from and where we are today.  Glen always has some humorous bits to inject when he is speaking and it keeps the topics interesting throughout. I took a few photos of the showroom before dashing to another event.  It really is a busy time of year for those of us in this business.

It would be remiss of me to not mention a little about Fisher and Paykel.  This organization has long been committed to environmentally conscious operations as a business, and to creating new products that increasingly limit the impact on the environment's natural resources.  Today they strive to emphasize sustainability in everything they do, from comprehensive recycling programs to continual energy and water consumption reduction efforts both in manufacturing and new product design.  Visit their website for more information and a look at the amazing options they offer.  They have a great recipe section as well.   Then go to SOFA for an up close look and you will fall in love....

 

Facts of Leather Furnishings.....

There has always been an interest in selecting leather for our home furnishings so I thought that with all the different options out there I would concentrate on the facts so that anyone contemplating such a purchase would be well informed prior to making the final transaction - the Payment!!  

We have all heard the phrase "You truly get what you pay for" and this definitely applies when buying leather furniture. High-quality pieces cost more, but their comfort and longevity make them a worthwhile investment. There are ways to save money without sacrificing style. If you’re simply looking for a display piece that won't get much use, consider bonded leather or leather-look as a lower-cost option. Or consider “leather match", in which some of the piece (like the back and sides, where physical contact is minimal) is made of dyed vinyl, and front-facing cushions and seats are made of high-quality leather. Research your options to find the best fit for your taste and budget

Genuine leather is highly desired for its fashionable look and durable nature. Cowhide leather is a term specifically applied to leather made from the hides (the skins) of cows, although it is generally used to designate any leather tanned from the hides of animals of the bovine species.

The natural or embossed pattern and texture of a hide's surface is called the grain. There are multiple types of leather grains to choose from, each with their own features and benefits.

In general, leather is sold in a variety of different forms -

Full Grain;  Top Grain ;   Split Grain;   Bonded;   Nubuk;   Suede;   Bi-cast;   

 Faux Leather - Leather Look;  Leather Match

 

Full Grain 

Full-grain leather is used in only the highest quality furniture. Only premium leathers are full grain. As such, it is usually the most expensive kind of leather furniture available This leather undergoes no processing or sanding to remove discoloration. Full-grain leather makes for tough, long-lasting furniture. If you have children and pets and anticipate using the furniture in high-traffic rooms, the durability of full-grain leather may appeal to you.

Full-grain leather refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed no polishing and finishing is done to the grain   (as opposed to top-grain or corrected leather) to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The whole hide is used, not just some layers of it.

Except for hair removal and soaking in some form of natural dye like aniline vegetable dye, it is basically untreated leather. Although there may be imperfections on the leather, as it retains all of the original texture and markings of the original hide, this kind of grain tends to look and feel better with time as well as creating an individual and unique appearance. The grain remains allowing the fiber strength and durability. The grain also has breathability, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact, thus more comfort.

Rather than wearing out, it will develop a patina over time. High quality leather furniture and footwear are often made from full-grain leather. 

Full-grain leathers are typically available in two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline.

Top Grain

Top grain leather furniture will typically be more expensive, but will have an incredibly soft feel and will be long lasting.  Top-grain leather (the most common type used in high-end leather products) is the second-highest quality. The leather, otherwise known as corrected grain or full grain pigmented, is taken from the outermost upper layer of the hide, and is the toughest leather type; it is the only leather recommended to use for high quality sofas. Unlike full grain, top grain is usually buffed to remove any imperfections. The best top grain leather reflects that an animal has lived in an environment that resulted in limited scratches, insect bites or other damage.

It has had the "split" layer separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than full-grain. Its surface has been sanded and a finish coat added to the surface which results in a colder, plastic feel with less breathability, and it will not develop a natural patina. It is typically less expensive and has greater resistance to stains than full-grain leather, so long as the finish remains unbroken.

Split Grain 

Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left after the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. Split grain comes from the bottom part of the hide.   During the splitting operation, the top-grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting this leather is harder and cheaper than full grain leather. Split leather is comparatively more fragile and gets easily damaged if not handled properly. The process of tanning leather involves reducing the hide to the thickness required for upholstered products. The back of an animal has a thicker skin, so it is split to create a piece of leather out of this extra thickness. Split grain has a stamped and painted surface in order to have the appearance of top grain leather. This is often use on the sides and back of the furniture to allow a more affordable price point.

Bonded

Bonded leather creates a look and feel similar to genuine leather, but consists of a synthetic material made of polyurethane (PU) with leather scraps and fibres are mixed together, and then formed into a roll using adhesives or other bonding materials, then stamped with a grain-like pattern.   In fact, the manufacturing process is very similar to making paper. After the roll is formed, it goes under drying equipment to reduce the moisture content. Since it usually contains only 10 to 17 percent leather fibres, some industry experts do not consider it real leather and express concerns with it being marketed as such.

However, bonded leather does has its advantage as a furniture material. Firstly, it is highly durable. Secondly, it contains low levels of environmentally unsafe formaldehyde as it doesn't undergo chemical tanning and is therefore suitable for people with leather allergies. Lastly, bonded leather furniture is significantly cheaper than real leather.

Corrected-grain leather is any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather do not meet the standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected or sanded off, and an artificial grain impressed into the surface and dressed with stain or dyes. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.

The leather has all the imperfections removed and an artificial grain applied.

Corrected-grain leather is any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather do not meet the standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected or sanded off, and an artificial grain impressed into the surface and dressed with stain or dyes. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.

Nubuck 

This is top grain cattle rawhide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, giving it the appearance similar to velvet and suede. It has a more uniform appearance because the exterior is sprayed with a finishing agent. It is cheaper as compared to full grain leather. However, nubuck furniture is fragile in nature and requires careful maintenance. A waterproofing treatment is mandatory to keep the material looking good.

Suede

Suede is soft and fuzzy on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain leather. Reversed suede is grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not considered to be a true form of suede.

Bi-cast 

Bi-cast leather is Split leather that has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain. It is made by gluing a sheet of polyurethane colour to a split grain. This product comes in roll form like fabric. Split leather is used as a backing so a customer can see or feel the leather. A finish is created by applying polyurethane (PU) to provide the colour, texture and strength.   Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness.   It has the appearance of top grain leather, at a fraction of the cost. Bi-cast does not age well. In fact, it cracks and peels when exposed to too much friction. So, make sure that you purchase bi-cast furniture knowingly and not because you were led to believe it is real leather.

Faux Leather

As the name suggests, this is not real leather. It is man-made leather made from synthetic materials such as plastic and rubber-coated fabric. Faux leather has come a long way as the technology has resulted in great improvements in the material composition, thus increasing the comfort level of such sofas. It is durable, looks like original leather and is the cheapest type of leather for furniture.

Leather Look – Polyurethane & Vinyl 

(PU) is a very effective form of plastic that can be applied to fabric or other products to create beautiful, durable and lower-cost furniture pieces.  Vinyl is a product similar to polyurethane but normally not as durable or versatile. It is normally lower in cost than polyurethane so is used for match applications where strength is not an issue. This is often use on the sides and back of the furniture to allow a more affordable price point.

Leather-Match 

Leather-match furniture combines top grain leather on visible areas, like seats and cushions, with skillfully matched vinyl on the sides and back of the furniture. Leather-match looks and feels like leather, at a more affordable price.

Leather Finishes 

There are two ways of coloring upholstery grade leather - with dyes only or with dyes and pigments. Leather colored strictly with a dye is referred to as unfinished, whereas pigmented leather is classified as finished.

  

Aniline/Unfinished Dyed leather is when leather is colored only with dye then there is no protective coating. It is sometimes referred to as “pure-aniline” leather. (Aniline is a type of dye that colors leather.) This is usually a full grain leather that has been through the process of colouring using non-toxic aniline dyes. This leather is soft, supple to the touch. Its color is rich and deep, offering a uniform colour and as dyes are translucent and they penetrate, often completely through the leather. The leather’s natural beauty is accentuated by the dye giving the furniture a luxurious look and feel. Only the finest hides can qualify to be unfinished, so unsurprisingly, it’s the most expensive category. However, there is a dark side. This class of leather stains easily (these hides are highly porous) and the color fades, in some cases very rapidly. (UV’s the culprit.)

Protected Aniline 

Finished leather is colored with the same aniline dye as unfinished leather however these hides go through a secondary coloring process. The leather has been aniline dyed and then slightly pigmented to ensure colour consistency. It also makes the surface more durable than less-processed leather.  It has to flex and allow the leather to breath so it has unique attributes that differentiate it from common wall paint. Pigmented leather finishes are opaque, creating a colored film on top of the hide. The color coating is then augmented with a clear coat forming its primary protection. This clear coat also dictates the sheen, from gloss to matte. Quality finished leather may not feel as soft and supple as unfinished, but will be able to withstand the rigors of an active household. It won’t stain nearly as readily. It’s easier to clean, and fades so slowly, you’ll never notice it.

Pigmented

If you have children or pets at home, pigmented leather furniture is your best bet for great looking, long-lasting furniture. It is lower-grade leather dyed to hide all color imperfections. This gives the leather a shiny outer coat. It's stiff to the touch initially, but it softens with use. Pigmented leather is also resistant to stains and liquids.

   

Other Considerations 

Color selection is something else to think about. The lighter the color, the more maintenance it will require to keep the leather looking new and clean.

So, based on your budget, set your expectations correctly and think about how the piece will be used. Then when you shop ask the following questions.

Is the leather finished or unfinished? Remember to consider placement and usage patterns.

Is it top-grain leather? If it isn’t, it won’t have the durability you think you’re getting.

Is it all leather or is some of it vinyl? Don’t be duped.

How is the frame constructed? If it’s going to last, it has to be well built.

With the answers to these questions at least you’ll know what you’re buying.

Watch for a companion article on ‘What to look for in Sofa Construction’

Cambria Quartz

Last week CHUM FM did an advertisement mentioning my name and that of my colleague which was a nice surprise. We spent a few hours at the gorgeous Cambria Showroom,  www.cambriacanada.com on Parliament St., in Toronto doing complimentary Consultations as part of their "Stylemaker Saturdays".  Just being in that showroom surrounded by the many lovely samples of quartz along with the designed spaces gets the creativity flowing.  I met some very nice people and enjoyed assisting with their new kitchen designs.